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#82: Whiteface Mountain Summit

The northern terminus of the Long Path of New York is not well known by such a title. Instead it is better known as the highest commercial ski area in the northeast, 5th tallest mountain in New York, site of the 1980 Winter Olympics Downhill Skiing, home to the Atmospheric Sciences Research Center (ASRC) field station, Veteran’s Memorial Highway, and more! What a perfect spot to make the climax of a hiker’s journey north from the 176 St Station of the NYC Subway System – the southern terminus of the Long Path in New York City!

There are four main approaches to consider when climbing Whiteface Mountain. The least travelled and “more difficult” option is the trail leaving from Whiteface Landing and approaching from the south. With longer mileage and a harder climb, it has the benefit of passing the Whiteface Brook Lean-To for potential overnights. For the Long Path thu-hiker, the trail starting at the Wilmington Reservoir is the most logical choice. It climbs at a moderate grade out of Wilmington and eventually meets up with the main trail near the top of Marble Mountain after about 2.2 miles. The Marble Mountain trail is probably the most well traveled aside from the fourth option; that being the hike from the top of the Veterans Highway which passes up nearly all the joys and hardship of spending a day in the mountain woods. 

On Sunday, September 28th, I joined my mother and sister (Kim and Mikayla) at the Marble Mountain trailhead. It is located just a short distance from the toll booth for the highway to the top and shares an access road with the lower ASRC station. After parking the trail follows a short gravel road walk to the base of Marble Mountain. Known as Whiteface Mountain Ski Center as early as the 1930’s and later renamed to Marble Mountain; trails were cut and a t-bar lift installed by 1948. Accounts say it was very unsuccessful and went defunct after only 10 years in operation (see attached article). However, the scars remain and the first hour of your hike is straight up the old t-bar line. It is steep with tough footing due to the trail bed consisting mostly of fist size or smaller stones. It’s useful to take breaks at each of the six concrete anchors from the old ski lift. Passing each one means you’re closer to the beautiful view at the top, which looks out south and east over some fantastic autumn colors (if you find yourself so fortunate). 

Your first 0.9 miles out of the way, the trail joins with the previously mentioned reservoir trail. It then continues steadily up the side of Lookout Mountain. Along this section you may find an old toboggan shed or a sign on a tree, all evidence from previous skiing activity. Eventually the trail levels out a bit and your second major landmark reveals itself. The intersection to Esther Mountain is marked by a massive pile of rocks in the middle of the trail. There is also a small sign with an arrow stating: “Esther (path not maintained or marked). Although bearing a foreboding sign, the path is quite defined and well worn. Up until this point most of your hiking has probably been pretty dry, but after this point plan on encountering sections of wetter trail. If you choose to hike the extra two miles round trip out to Esther, this is especially the case. 

The trip over to Esther is relatively flat, with significant ups and downs not lasting very long at all. At certain moments you can get good views of Whiteface or the lowlands west of it. The best view by far is immediately before the summit. The summit itself has almost no views itself but is denoted by the “Esther Mc Comb” plaque and is the 28th tallest mountain in New York. After returning from the journey up Esther, a right turn takes you up towards Whiteface. This section is the flattest portion, as it mostly contours around Lookout Mountain until you’re on Whiteface proper. You’ll begin climbing again shortly before reaching the top of the Lookout Mountain Chairlift and the old Porcupine Lodge. A steady upward climb continues over some technical boulders until you meet a massive stone wall. This is the foundation for the highway that snakes its way up the mountain. Go left following this wall until you reach a boulder pile that you must scale with great care. This will bring you up to the road level. After the wall ends, do not venture out onto the road. The hiking trail continues on the left up a few more steep ledges. Rising quickly above the road, you find yourself entering the alpine zone. 

The alpine zone is an extremely sensitive ecosystem composed of plants that are remnants of the last ice age. These hardy, endangered plants are tough enough to endure freezing temperatures, high winds, and a short growing season, however stepping on them will kill them easily. Taking extra care to walk only on rocks whenever possible, you proceed up the ridge toward the now very visible summit station. After a short 10 to 15 more minutes of climbing you’re at the summit and can fully take in the 360 degrees of views. To the west is the Makenzie Range and Saranac Lake beyond. Looking to the north is the route you just hiked, with Esther in the foreground and low forests stretching to Canada. The east holds the trails and lodges of Whiteface Ski Area, Wilmington, Jay and rolling hills out to Vermont. The view south is by far the most photographed, encompassing the Sentinel Range, Wilmington Notch (LPN#81), Copperas Pond (LPN#80), the West Branch Ausable River (LPN#79) winding its way back towards the town of Lake Placid (LPN#78), the Olympic Ski Jumps, and finally the hulking mass of the High Peaks Wilderness. The sharp notch of Indian Pass at Wallface Mountain (LPN#73) can be seen near the western high peaks. There are not many other places where so many individual points on the Long Path can be seen in one view. 

After spending some time on the summit, eating lunch, the return journey must begin. Reversing course on this trail is familiar work. Taking care in the technical sections, the average hiker should make fairly quick work of the trip down. It is recommended that you slow your speed as you descend past Lookout Mountain, as the steep slope down to Marble can wear on your knees. While descending Marble Mountain is where the greatest care is recommended, as the tired hiker can easily roll an ankle on the nearly one mile of steep loose stone. 

Back to the car and a job’s well done! After about 9.5 miles round trip and over 3,600 feet of elevation gain, a visit to the Twisted Raven, Hungry Trout, or any of the fine eateries in Lake Placid is in good order.

"Schenectady Wintersports Club Inc." is a 501(c)4 non-profit organization. P.O. Box 2072, Wilton New York 12831